The Taste of Earth

My mother once passed around a photo of a toddler in a muddy springtime garden, mouth full of dirt, fingers gingerly lifting an earthworm to taste.   For years my brothers taunted me – Wanda the Worm Eater.

early spring in the vineyard
surprises in the vineyard

Decades on I’m still caught by the spell of thawing earth, and the hidden, mysterious workings down below.

wild spring onion between the vines
wild spring onion between the vines

It’s March.  The allées in the vineyard are suddenly bursting with clover and wildflowers, a godsend for the first pollinators.  But the real showstopper: entire parcels of spring onions.  I asked the farmer who planted them.  No one, they grow wild.  When he was a child they dug them up to sell for pocket money.

digging up a bunch for lunch
digging up a bunch for lunch
surprise spring harvest
spring onions waiting for us
ingredients for birthday omelet

I’m trying to reach back to cellular memory, that collective place where we all have a hankering for spring earth, minerals, and an intriguing earthworm.

another bulb, invisible until spring
another bulb at vineyard’s edge

But the guy in my kitchen has drawn a culinary line.  Earth flavors, yes.  On condition they’re alchemized through a birthday omelet with eggs from a neighbor, spring onions from the vineyard, magic lettuce from the lawn.

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