Back in the USA

All the great mystical traditions speak of the peculiar qualities of grace.  You can’t make demands.  It has a life of its own and tends to show up when least expected.

So perhaps it was fortuitous that I had no expectations when I went to the States this month to present the wine in my old hometowns – New York, Washington DC and Maryland.  “Going home” turned out to be charged with more resonance than I could possibly have conjured up under my own steam.

First stop, Washington Heights in northern Manhattan.  I hopped off the “A” train at 181^st Street and headed down the hill toward the Hudson River and the pearl strung lights of the George Washington Bridge.  Our old neighborhood.  The place where our first child was born.  In the 1980’s this beautiful area of pre-war apartments near the Cloisters Museum was a tiny haven surrounded by sectors in despair.  In those days it was difficult for a legitimate business to flourish.  But one stood firm, a tiny Mom-and-Pop liquor store and bodega, run by a family with backbone and vision even during the dark times of crack-cocaine and sidewalk shoot-outs.

We left the Heights reluctantly in the late 1980’s.  Over the years the neighborhood took some hits, but the tiny liquor store held tight.  On occasional visits I was astonished to see that the little shop where we chatted with Ernie and his mother and sister had expanded four-fold.  Cabrini Wines became a premiere wine boutique, one of the most reputable on the Upper West Side.  It is the favorite wine shop of our first born Genevieve, daughter of the Heights, raised in Paris, New Yorker in her bones.

It was an emotional sort of visit to Cabrini Wines. Seeing Ernie after all these years, witnessing his palpable success, hearing stories of his family, remembering how we were all those years ago…  It was fun to show them our wine – who would have guessed that the blond in red overalls pushing a carriage would be back from Bordeaux 25 years later, toting the grown-up baby and bottles of home-grown brew.  Many thanks to Brian, the manager for organizing a very cordial and professional tasting; thanks to both for their appraisals and advice. www.cabriniwines.com  The week in New York was marked by further wine introductions, but the highlight by far was that afternoon in my old stomping grounds at Cabrini.  Or maybe it was the extravagant surprise birthday party, but that’s another story.  Just to say, thank you Gen, Pam, Sarah, Bea, Carol and Christine for your gathered powers.

On to my birthplace, Washington DC, and childhood home, Maryland.  I was met on the platform of the train station by my old friend, Bea.  A psychic once said we’d been rogue carpet sellers in India many lives ago, and I don’t it doubt it. She got me into and out of more trouble than my mother ever imagined.

It had an air of the old teen days, cruising around and hatching up adventures, except this time we were out investigating the best wine shops on the Maryland/DC border.  Among our many delightful discoveries was Ian Weitzman of Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Washington DC, www.chevychasewine.com and the team at Vino Volo in Bethesda, MD including Tristan Kindy and Shaina Harvey. www.vinovolo.com.  Of course old home week would not be complete without my sister Ann at my side, and a tasting at iconic Bradley Food and Beverage in Bethesda. www.bradleyfood.com.  Tom Merkel, the owner, is a friend from high school who was among the first to develop a gourmet boutique outside of Georgetown in the 1970s. Thank you dear Tom, for your kindness and help.

To round out the Maryland Tour, we headed to one of the state’s hidden jewels, the Knob Hall Winery, set in gorgeous countryside 1½ hours outside DC.  I was on a mission from Olivier Bouilhac and Julie Bergerat, neighbors in nearby Landerrouat who make a divine Sauvignon Blanc, paying little heed to conventions or AOC’s.  www.bouilhacbergerat.fr.   Olivier told me I must pay a visit to his old friend Richard Seibert of Knob Hall, since he helped plant his vineyard in 2005.

As we drove through sleepy farmland with cows grazing on pastures dotted with rocks, I wondered about the viability of a vineyard in this western stretch of the state.  Maryland was always famous for dairy farms, peaches, tomatoes… but wine?  Wine from Maryland?

We were greeted warmly by Gale in their reception hall, the original high-beamed barn, tastefully converted for music events, receptions and wine tastings.  2009 was their first harvest and already they are presenting almost a dozen wines, some of them gold medal winners.  We sipped varietals I have never tasted in France, and when Richard (Dick) came to meet us, he explained that his wife is their master vintner.  Chapeau!   The wines are wonderful.  I was especially carried away by their Chambourcin 2010.  www.knobhallwinery.com 

After swapping stories we found much in common.  This land has been in their family for 200 years and after inheriting the farm they made the decision to convert partially to a vineyard.  Their soil composition is much like our own, limestone and clay. Dick and I shared concerns about land and vineyard management, discussing various methods for avoiding industrial-habit chemicals; he confided they’re thinking of using sheep to trim the grass between their rows. (I’m very eager to hear how that goes.)  I stuffed my suitcase with their wine so I can show Olivier and Julie the fruit of their efforts, and look forward to a visit from the Seibert family soon.

Now back in Juillac.  After all the hospitality and help I’m still a bit stunned.  And reminded of what our friend Dr. Williman used to say, just before he passed away:

“Do you ever get the feeling the Universe is conspiring to make you happy?”